A topographical model of the island is one of the attractions of the spacious Reykjavík’s City Hall, situated at the intersection of the city’s trails, by the Pond, a small lake in the centre of town. The building, designed by architects from Iceland’s Granda Studio, seems to be floating on water. Paths and a footbridge over the pond lead to the building’s interior, occupied by public officers working for the municipality. The edifice was commissioned in 1992.
Vonarstræti, 101 Reykjavík
A favourite leisure activity of Icelanders is sitting in hot water (most swimming pools in Iceland are fed from continuously flowing, geothermally heated natural water sources). Socializing is a cornerstone of the swimming pool culture. Locals just go there to spend time with friends and family, or have a chat with their fellow citizens or whoever wants to talk to them.
In Reykjavík there are seven different swimming pools to visit. Laugardalslaug is the biggest complex of open pools. For those who prefer a roof over their heads, there is still Sundhöll Reykjavíkur on Barónsstígur, Reykjavík’s longest running indoor swimming pool, designed by Guðjón Samúelsson and executed between 1929-1937. The complex’s corridors and locker rooms enchanted Roni Horn, who photographed it in her project Her, Her, Her, and Her (2002-2003). 40 minutes ride from Reykjavík, in the middle of nowhere, one will find the famous swimming pool complex – Blue Lagoon.
A graveyard and park in one. An exceptionally beautiful cemetery in downtown Reykjavík, consecrated in 1838 (nobody wanted to bury their relatives there for a superstition that the first person buried would not rest in peace, but become a “custodian” of the graveyard). A burial ground for some thirty thousand inhabitants of Reykjavík, treated by many as a park. A favourite place for bird-watchers (Redwing, White Wagtail, and in 1955 a Common Nighthawk was spotted here) and muscologists (various rare mosses). The name of this, the oldest cemetery in Reykjavík, means “garden on a hill” in Icelandic.
Between the streets: Ljósvallagata, Kirkjugarðsstigur, Sólvallagata and Suðurgata, 101 Reykjavík
Near the harbour one finds the biggest construction site in Reykjavík, where The Icelandic National Concert and Conference Centre is slowly being erected. The project is a remnant of bombastic plans from before the crisis, and the need for having a landmark of economic prosperity, with an intention to merge cultural infrastructure with a business centre. The façade – “a crystalline lattice of glass and steel”, which is already partly visible, was designed by Ólafur Elíasson and is a reference to the basalt shore. The government decided to go on with the project despite the countries economic crash , though the construction process has slowed down (the initial completion date was Fall of 2009). Walking further along the coast one comes across other symbols of the investment boom and the following crash – abandoned construction sites, an infamous half-finished Tower among them.
Large parts of Reykjavík are built from wood. Some of the buildings date back to the second half of the 18th century. One can even notice influences of classical architecture or neo-Romantic Swiss-chalets. The use of corrugated iron cladding, originally imported from England, is unique to Icelandic timber houses. Because of the harsh weather, it is the most common roofing material in Iceland still today. Many of the timber houses were imported prefabricated from Norway (so called ”catalogue” houses). The most picturesque ones however are in Grjótaþorpið, ”the village”, Reykjavík’s oldest district, and on Tjarnargata by the Pond, built for wealthy officials and intellectuals at the beginning of the 20th century, mostly in the Swiss-chalet style.
A picturesque house, built in 1909, it was the location for the 1986 summit meeting of presidents Ronald Reagan and Michail Gorbatschow. The house is also known to be haunted by a ghost called The White Lady, who once made the British ambassador abandon the place. The house was severely damaged in a fire in 2009.
In the 1930’s a group of young architects brought functionalism to Iceland with the intention of helping Icelandic architecture regenerate with the assistance of high quality architectural design. The design process paralleled social thought. With time the functionalist architecture gained local traits, e.g. a technique was developed using domestic minerals or seashells for dashing exterior walls. This functionalism is the style of a whole district of standardized family houses, detached and semidetached, and known as Reykjavík Cooperative Housing, built from 1934-35. The main material used is timber which was usually covered with cement or corrugated iron sheets – popular in Iceland. Most of the houses have been considerably changed by their inhabitants according to their tastes. A better preserved example of pre-war functionalism is Félegsgarður Cooperative Housing, designed mostly by Gunnlaugur Halldórsson and built 1935-36.
Hringbraut 95-112, Ásvallagata 52-64, 67-81, 101 Reykjavík
A single venue hosts Havarí – a music store specializing in alternative and new Icelandic music, and Útúrdúr – a unique store with art books and magazines. Both places are regular organisers of artistic events and concerts.
Austurstræti 6, 101 Reykjaví
www.havari.is
www.uturdur.blogspot.com
The Old Harbour of Reykjavík was constructed between 1913 and 1917 and has been gradually developed since then. The Maritime Museum, located in the building that used to be the Reykjavík Trawler Company’s freezing plant, is dedicated to the evolution of Icelanders’ fishing and coastal culture and offers a magnificent view of the harbour from its balcony. The Coast Guard vessel Ódinn, operated by the Icelandic Coast Guard between 1960-2006, belongs to the museum, which offers guided tours of it. It lies at the museum’s pier along with tugboat Magni, the first steel ship built in Iceland.
Grandagardur 8, 101 Reykjavík
A legendary record shop in the heart of Reykjavík, meeting point for musicians, friendly place where you can relax and listen to the music (live on Fridays). 12 Tónar is also a distributor of Icelandic music, including home made recordings, and a rapidly growing record label.
Skolvardustig 15, 101 Reykjavík
The exhibition ”The Iceland :: Film” is presented on a single tape running throughout the entire gallery with a story describing the history of film in Iceland, from the very beginnings in 1904 until the present day. The organizers write, “Icelandic filmmaking reflects the role generally played by art – to mirror socio-cultural evolution and serve as a platform where questions are asked and experiments made. According to the curators, the opposition between myths and modernity, and traditions and globalisation, is a frequent theme of Icelandic films in all categories: documentaries, literature and saga adaptations, feature films, short films and experimental films.” Apart from fragments of selected productions, approximately 100 films are screened in their complete versions. Something for those with perseverance. Exhibition is open until September 2010.
Hverfisgata 15, 101 Reykjavík
www.thjodmenning.is
The country’s largest museum of cultural history, featuring a permanent exhibition on Iceland’s extraordinary history from settlement to present day. The display, opened in 2004 and entitled The Making of the Nation, starts with the ship with which the first settlers sailed to the island, and ends with an airport conveyor belt carrying objects of everyday use and illustrating the 20th c. The museum was established in 1863, and in 1950 was relocated to a building designed by Sigurður Guðmundsson and Eiríkur Einarsson.
Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík
www.natmus.is
Center for Icelandic Art – a platform for Icelandic visual art activities. CIA.IS promotes Icelandic art by linking the local visual arts community with an international art network. CIA.IS, with its database, is the prime source of information for Icelandic artists as well as foreign curators, collectors, journalists and anyone who is interested in Icelandic culture.
From July 9-16 the HQ of CIA will serve as an information point for Villa Reykjavík.
Hafnarstræti 16, 101 Reykjavík
www.cia.is
An architectural pearl designed by world renowned architect, Alvar Aalto (1898-1976). Built between 1963-1968 this cultural centre for Nordic countries was designed by the famous Fin down to the very last detail, including lamps, furniture, and other free standing objects. The interior of the library is particularly enchanting, illuminated by light from the skylight over the centre of the hall. The complex includes a small pond which reflects the contrasting forms of the building (the low base of the building is built from white-painted brick and its prominent roof covered in tiles glazed in dark purple). Unfortunately the bigger picture is somewhat spoilt by a rather unfortunate neighbourhood. The inside houses the expensive but, as our insider told us, innovative, Dill restaurant.
Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavík
www.nordic.is
The main seat of Reyjkjavik Art Museum - Hafnarhús, is located in a building designed by Sigurður Guðmundsson, a seminal figure in Icelandic architecture. with the initial intention of it being a harbour office building, the structure carries evident traits of the Bauhaus school (1933-1939). The present form of the edifice was designed by the Icelandic Granda Studio from 1998 – 2000 (the architects also responsible for the design of Reykjavík City Hall). Until the end of August 2010 the museum will display Erró’s portraits, 28 May – 29 August 2010). Other exhibitions in July will include photographs by Gary Schneider (15 May – 20 August 2010), In the Collection of Imperfection – Unnar Örn J. Auðarson (20 May – 29 August 2010), Vanitas. Still-life in Contemporary Icelandic Art (20 May – 29 August 2010).
Tryggvagata 17, 101 Reykjavík
www.artmuseum.is
Kjarvalsstaðir, one of the best examples of modern architecture in Reykjavík, located in Miklatún park, was designed by Hannes Kr. Daviðsson and inaugurated in 1973. The place is mostly dedicated to Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval (1885-1972), Iceland’s most beloved painter, who died a year before the museum’s opening. In July the museum will display a collection of the artist’s most prominent works (Kjarval – Key Works, 14 May – 29 August 2010) as well as selected photographs from the collection of Pétur Arason and Ragna Róbertsdóttir (Alternative Eye, 14 May – 22 August 2010).
Kjarvalsstaðir, Flókagata, 105 Reykjavík
www.artmuseum.is
One of three venues of the Reykjavík Art Museum, fully dedicated to the oeuvre of sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982). The museum is housed in a unique domed building that was designed and built mostly by the artist himself. Today this crazy piece of architecture is surrounded by a sculpture garden. Until April 2011 the Museum will host the exhibition Woman as Symbol in the Art of Ásmundur Sveinsson. The artist’s gender-ambiguous statement, “Woman should not attempt too much to be like a man – her strength is being who she is. As my statues clearly show, I choose blossoming women” (1961, interview) is the element underpinning the exhibition.
Asmundarsafn, Sigtún, 105 Reykjavík
www.artmuseum.is
A museum dedicated to Iceland’s first sculptor, Einar Jónsson, whose oeuvre drew on Icelandic folklore heritage and mythology. The sculptures gathered in the building radiate with pathos, heroism, and complicated symbolism, as is already obvious in the titles: The Wave of the Ages, The King of Atlantis, Spirit and Matter, Wrestling with Age. The building, erected in 1916-1923, hosted the first museum dedicated to the art of Iceland. Funded with public money and private donations it served, until the death of the artist, as a gallery of his sculptures, which he had donated to the state, as well as his studio and home.
Njarðargata (main entrance in Eiríksgata), 101 Reykjavík
www.skulptur.is
The first artist-run organisation in Iceland, founded by a group of 20 artists in 1978. A small, flexible institution, not representing the artists, but providing exhibition space, a forum for critical discourse, organising international art events, establishing artistic networks, and promoting Icelandic art. The Living Art Museum’s collection holds more than 1000 works today, donations made by artists who have exhibited in the museum, as well as art books, prints, documents and a vast archive of the museum’s history, performance art, and other artist-run spaces in Iceland.
Skúlgata 28, 101 Reykjavík
www.nylo.is
On the headland of Seltjarnarnes, the smallest Icelandic township, located within the Greater Reykjavík area, one will come across a small lighthouse and a local attraction – a hot pot, where it’s always nice to dip one’s feet (regardless of time of day or season). The Cupstone is the permanent installation by Ólöf Nordal, placed there in 2005. Grótta peninsula, where the lighthouse was built, can be accessed on foot only between hightides. You can experience here that Icelandic beaches are predominantly black due to black volcanic sand. In June the place is closed while many species of birds hatch their eggs there. From Grótta on a clear day you can see Snæfellsjökull, a volcano with a glacier covering its summit, and a view of the mountaineous horizon.
Grótta, Seltjarnarnes
A long-term installation and functioning community centre in a former library in the town of Stykkishólmur on the west coast of Iceland, created by American artist Roni Horn in collaboration with Art Angel, opened in May 2007. It includes an archive of glacial water from Iceland which was collected as ice from 24 glacial sources (water is stored in 24 glass columns), as well as an alternative form of weather reporting – a collective portrait of Iceland, mediated by its inhabitants talking about the weather. Roni Horn called herself a ‘permanent tourist’ in Iceland, and her work for years has been involved with the nature and culture of the country. Stykkishólmur is located approximately 2 hours drive from Reykjavík. Buses run daily between Reykjavík and Stykkishólmur.
Bókhlöðustigur 17, 340 Stykkishólmur
www.libraryofwater.is
Nine pairs of black basalt columns placed by Richard Serra around the perimeter of the western half of Viðey Island near Reykjavík. It takes an approximately 2 hour walk to see them all. The same island hosts the Imagine Peace Tower, an outdoor installation by Yoko Ono, dedicated to John Lennon. The light tower, inaugurated in 2007, is visible from October 9th – Lennon’s birthday, until December 8th – the anniversary of his death. For those who decide to visit the island (a short ferry trip), it is highly recommended to dine in Videyjarstofa restaurant, located in one of the oldest buildings in Iceland, designed by N. Eigtved, the best known master of the Danish rococo.
The official bar and concert venue for Villa Reykjavík. Challenge a mate to a game of foosball or snap a photo in the booth. Bakkus, decorated by artist Davíð Örn Halldórsson and Venue by Sigga Björg Sigurðardóttir, are commonly owned and run and a much welcomed addition to the Icelandic scene.
Tryggvagata 22 (entrance on Naustarmegin), 101 Reykjavík
The best hotdog in town, as the name of this hotdog (pylsur) stand in central Reykjavík says (“The Guardian” even chose the place in 2006 as the best hotdog stand in Europe). A truly cult hotdog place with a history of 70 years, located in the vicinity of the harbour, in the hands of the same family for four generations. The business is now managed by Baldur Ingi Halldórsson, the great grandson of Jón Sveinsson – founder of the stand in 1937. The history of the place coincides with the history of Iceland. Queues of locals and tourists drawn by the fame of the stand never vanish (including Bill Clinton who was lucky to get his hotdog for free), with whole families coming here for a standing Sunday lunch. The pleasure costs only 280 ISK (and includes: ketchup, sweet mustard, fried onion, raw onion and remolaði, a mayonnaise-based sauce with sweet relish).
Hafnarstræti 17, 101 Reykjavík
www.bbp.is
Sea Baron, a restaurant located in one of the oldest fisherman’s huts. Best fried fish in town, down by the Reykjavík harbour. The menu offers reasonably priced fish dishes (fish shish-kebabs), including a number of unusual Icelandic specialties (the famous lobster soup and grilled beaked whale on sticks).
Verbúð 8, Geirsgata,101 Reykjavík
www.saegreifinn.is
Þrír Frakkar
A popular restaurant serving traditional Icelandic cuisine. For lovers of plaice and whale meat.
Baldursgata 14, 101 Reykjavík
Babalú
A unique, cosy, and popular coffee house – real beefcakes serving delicious cheesecakes (and other light meals) here.
Cafe Babalú, Skólavör ustíg 22a, 101 Reykjavík
Grái Kötturinn
The Gray Cat, a coffee house frequented by art crowds and followed by wannabes and such like.
Hverfisgötu 16a, 101 Reykjavík
Kaffi Hljómalind
A non-profit coffee house serving organic food and drinks, popular concert spot for the locals.
Tryggvagata 22 (entrance on Naustarmegin), 101 Reykjavík















































